
Depending on your preference, New Orleans can be laid back or rough and tumble. I’ve experienced both ends of the spectrum on my brief sojourn in the Crescent City. Most of yesterday was spent tracking down recommendations from friends that have previously navigated the Magazine Street and the Garden district, providing ample distraction from the seemingly never ending alcohol free-flowing party the city offers in the tourist areas. I had another distraction that no amount of Cafe Du Monde Beignets could relieve. I had a ticket to see Bonnie ‘Prince’ Billy and the Cairo Gang at the New Orleans landmark Preservation Hall.
Before I get into the night’s adventures, I have some things to reveal. Since seeing Bonnie ‘Prince’ Billy last year at Turner Hall Ballroom in Milwaukee, Will Oldham’s music has taken on a significant spot in my heart. There was something so special about that show, that, well over a year later, I still smile at my recollections from it. That show, like all profound and moving shows do, led me on a steady audio diet of all things/creations of Will Oldham. No doubt, if you read the site on the regular, you’ve noticed the posts. So saying I was looking forward to last night’s show would be an understatement.
To put Preservation Hall into perspective for those unfamiliar, picture a single room that holds about 125 people. The musicians play unamplified to a crowd that is mixed of those seated in front and those standing in back. It’s BYOB style, no smoking, and it pretty much goes without saying you stay quiet and polite. I took in the Preservation Hall Jazz Band the previous night (post coming soon) and learned that early arrival puts you up close and personal. Because the venue hosts live jazz nightly across three hour long sets, touring acts play late, after the regular cats call it quits. I arrived, tenth in line around 10:30, and waited about 45 minutes before they called us in. No sooner than I sat down, nursing a mostly warm beer, it was announced that Hurray For The Riff Raff would open the show. (Check out our 5 Albums feature with them here) Led by Alynda Lee Segarra, this hometown group had the audience in their hand from first pluck of a banjo string. Band members filtered in and out as their folk tunes provided the absolute perfect opening set for the night to come.
So there I sat. Watching Emmett Kelly and Bonnie ‘Prince’ Billy showcase their talents to a full room that overflowed into the entrance. Of course they showcased their most recent work, Wondershow of the World
, the highlight of which came via a gorgeous take on “Go Folks, Go.” Throughout the night Kelly handled most of the guitar work which left Oldham free to sing, dance, gesture, and laugh his way through his catalog. “I Never Thought My Love Would Leave Me” and “The Sounds Are Always Begging” were early set highlights.
You’ll notice in a picture below a sign that adorns the wall directly behind the performers at Preservation Hall. This simple black sign with white lettering lays out the request policy and the cost of what it takes to get your song heard. “Traditional” song requests cost a couple bucks, “Other” will set you back $5, and “The Saints” will drain you of $10. I got the latter the night before thanks to another patrons generous pocketbook. One fan amongst last night’s crowd braved mention of the sign to Oldham. Apologizing first, then drawing attention to the sign, the fan and Oldham struck a deal ($5) on “I Am A Cinematographer.” The sign was taken from the wall and the evening resumed as with a lovely version of
“That’s What Our Love Is.”
I never expected to hear Bonnie ‘Prince’ Billy perform “I See A Darkness” last night. The fragility of that song combined with the intimate confines of said venue, would certainly draw water from every eye. I’ll never forget the silence of the room. I looked around and watched. All eyes transfixed, mouths slowly singing along, though barely audible. It was pretty powerful. Because the musicians were literally surrounded by people they were somewhat forced into playing a second encore, for which they quickly served up “Keep Eye On Other’s Gain.” Kelly and Oldham quickly stepped off stage and into the gated back of this landmark venue.
A pretty special night and a perfect send off to my first time in New Orleans. I know I’ll be back, but musically at least, last night’s show may be hard to top.
Video: Bonnie ‘Prince’ Billy – “I Am A Cinematographer” (Preservation Hall, New Orleans)
Buy: Bonnie Prince Billy & the Cairo Gang – Wondershow of the World